Log holders are a great way to keep your woodpile organized and safe from the elements. If you have a lot of firewood, it can be difficult to find enough room to stack all of them up neatly in one place. However, if you build a log holder for cutting firewood, you will always know where they are and won’t have any trouble finding what you need quickly! This article will tell you how to make a log holder using only some scrap materials that most people already have around their house.
Do you cut firewood with a chainsaw? If so, then there is a good chance that you will end up with some logs and branches scattered around the yard. This can be dangerous and also an eye sore if not properly organized. A log holder for cutting firewood is one of the most practical investments you can make to improve your property value as well as the safety of your family and pets!
The Log Holder for Cutting Firewood
It is very convenient to keep the logs in one place. Moreover, it will be easier for you when cutting firewood if they are organized. Some people use an old tire to do this job but there is a better way… How would you like something more practical? We can recommend building your own log holder which will help not only with storing them safely and conveniently but also provide some work space at the same time! You may need around two hours of free time (or even less), all materials that you’ll require plus several screws; sounds great, right? Here we go!
First of all, you need to measure the area where your log holder will be placed. Then buy the wood boards which you’ll require for its construction (the size depends on how big or small it is). You can choose cedar if it fits your needs but pine would do too; once again – this choice is up to you! Either way, now we are able to proceed with building our own unique and useful piece of furniture.
Log Holder Frame Construction: You should start by cutting eight pieces out of your chosen material that will form a square frame. The height must be at least 16 inches so that logs won’t fall over while they are stored in there. It might also help if one side of the frame is slightly shorter than others; this will ensure that it doesn’t fall over when placed on a flat surface.
- After you cut all of them, drill some holes (at least one and half inch deep) at equal distance from each other – make sure they are big enough to accommodate your screws! After this step take two pieces and screw them together with four long galvanized steel screws for stronger support. Do the same again but be careful not to tighten any bolt too much as there should be space left between logs which could allow air flow. If done correctly, now we can move onto building our main structure out of those eight boards!
- To secure things even further take another two pieces and place them in the corners of your square frame; you can do this by using screws or nails. Repeat these steps until all boards are placed on top of each other (but don’t tighten bolts yet!).
- Once we have our four sides covered, we need to add some support underneath it so that logs won’t fall over while stored inside there. You should take two more wood planks which you will require for its construction and screw them into bottom side (one next to another). Be sure not to drill any holes here as they aren’t needed! Now is a good time when tightening bolts again but only if everything looks steady enough without doing so.
- Now you are able to take some more wood boards which will serve as the shelves. You can use cedar or pine again but be sure that they won’t bend while holding logs! If done correctly, your log holder for cutting firewood is almost finished so what you should do next? Nail them into one another of course by placing both ends on top of each other and securing it with screws; don’t forget about using sawdust between them if needed (it would help prevent splitting too). Now we need to add a handle onto our piece of furniture – take two pieces and screw them in place at equal distance from each other (one inch apart); this might seem like a small detail but it is very important for ease of using your log holder!
- The final step in making our own log holder would be adding some finishing touches. You can start by placing a piece of rubber or leather on the bottom side (for easier movement), then we should add some sawdust inside there to prevent logs from sliding around while stored and lastly, you should take three coats of clear wood sealant spray; this will help protect both outside and insides from any type of damage. If done correctly, now you are able to organize things better when cutting firewood as well as work more efficiently at the same time too – sounds like an ideal solution… doesn’t it?
Materials for the Log Holder for Cutting Firewood
The materials needed to build a log holder for cutting firewood are very simple and easy to find. For the base, use any kind of wood you want as long as it is sturdy enough so that your logs won’t fall off even if they aren’t heavy at all. You can put them on top of this wooden platform or just place it in front if there isn’t much room around where you will be working with these pieces of timber.
If not, then cut down several logs into shorter lengths because bigger blocks might prove difficult to work with especially when trying out ways on how to stack up firewood better without falling over. Now let us talk about the main component which is the T-shaped stick/pole found at the top of this page. It is used to hold up your logs while you are cutting them, giving it a certain level of stability so that they won’t fall off when being cut by an axe or any other sharp tool for that matter. You can use whatever type of wood but just make sure its length should be equal with the width of your log pile so it will be easier to place on top without having too much trouble about it tipping over during operation.
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Materials needed: The materials for the log holder include sturdy wood, a T shaped stick/pole and nails.
For the base: use any kind of wood you want as long as it is sturdy enough so that your logs won’t fall off even if they aren’t heavy at all. You can put them on top of this wooden platform or just place it in front if there isn’t much room around where you will be working with these pieces of timbe. If not, then cut down several logs into shorter lengths because bigger blocks might prove difficult to work with especially when trying out ways on how to stack up firewood better without falling over. Now let us talk about the main component is the T-shaped stick/pole found at the top of this page. It is used to hold up your logs while you are cutting them, giving it a certain level of stability so that they won’t fall off when being cut by an axe or any other sharp tool for that matter. You can use whatever type of wood but just make sure its length should be equal with the width of your log pile so it will be easier to place on top without having too much trouble about it tipping over during operation.
Building the Frame of the Log Holder
The frame of the log holder is where you will need to use screws and nails. When building this part, keep in mind that it needs to be sturdy enough so that when you put logs into its framework they won’t just fall out. The diagram below illustrates how a basic plan for your log holder should look like: It only takes four pieces of wood cut at 45 degrees on their ends (these are called “rails”) and two boards connected with hinges at one end (these are called “stiles”). Once these measurements have been taken, cut all the boards according to these specifications while making sure everything lines up evenly. Afterward, take each rail and staple or screw them into the front and bottom of your log holder. Next, attach each stile to the back rail with hinges before placing it on top of a load of chopped wood.
Cutting the Pieces of Wood to Size
Cutting the pieces of wood to size can be done with a miter saw. It is recommended that you cut each piece at least two inches longer than its final length, as it will shrink when dried out and may split if too short. Step Three: Attach the Wood Blocks With your circular saw set on a depth of one-third inch, rip enough strips from three sides of each block so they’re just slightly wider than their corresponding logs (about an eighth or less). These are called spacers and keep the blocks in position across the width of whatever log holder you build. There should always be more spacer ends than faces because most cutting errors result in overcutting rather than undercutting – which leaves too much material on one face. You can also use the offcut scraps to make spacers for building more than one log holder at a time, as shown below.
Step One: How to Prepare Firewood Holder Frame
If you are building your firewood holder using logs instead of lumber boards, then prepare them by cutting down into smaller pieces that can be stacked one another vertically in alternating rows for maximum wood storage capacity – which is achieved when each row has two logs resting on top of one another with equal amounts protruding out from both ends so they don’t roll off onto floor whenever someone brushes past them or accidentally kicks them aside while walking by behind sofa looking under bed for TV remote control lost last night before going to sleep at midnight – but only if you have dogs who like chewing up items left unattended anywhere near their area because you didn’t know they were missing until next morning when walking down hallway towards kitchen to make coffee before everyone’s up for day and wondering why someone left their bed unmade by the window with covers all askew from turning over during night.
Step Two: How to Attach Firewood Holder Frame
If you’re building your firewood holder using lumber boards instead of logs, then cut down a piece of plywood measuring 18″ x 36″, or larger if desired based on how much wood is used inside at any given time, into corresponding stackable pieces that can be stacked one another vertically in alternating rows for maximum wood storage capacity – which results in four individual sections resting directly underneath each other but only two are visible because two are situated directly behind them and sandwiched between each other so they remain hidden from view unless sitting down on floor to take measurements for proper cuts.
Step Three: How to Cut Firewood Holder Frame
Using the plywood you just cut as a template, trace its shape onto all four sides of frame boards that will be used inside your firewood holder’s interior – but only if using lumber board instead of logs because those can’t fit into any drawer or storage space along with smaller pieces stacked one another vertically in alternating rows for maximum wood storage capacity which might require going back to store again after realizing too late at night there was limited supply left on shelves once arrived home later that evening upon coming across old family photo albums from Christmas a year ago that showed all the kids sitting around fireplace in living room singing songs about being good for Santa Claus to bring them presents next morning when going down stairs with arms full of wrapped boxes from underneath tree – but only if you have dogs who like chewing up items left unattended anywhere near their area because you didn’t know they were missing until next morning when walking down hallway towards kitchen to make coffee before everyone’s up for day and wondering why someone left their bed unmade by the window with covers all askew from turning over during night.
Step Four: Attach Blocks with Nails and Glue
Attach blocks with nails and glue by tacking them together on both sides of each joint using two-inch galvanized finishing (or casing) nails or 16d corrosion-resistant wire nails that are long enough not to bend over in hardwood logs; they should be driven into pilot holes prebored through end grain, spaced about six inches apart per face across all joints. Use yellow carpenter’s glue sparingly – too much may weaken the hold of your fasteners against wood movement later when it’s exposed outside or under wet conditions.
C-clamps are useful for keeping blocks aligned while you nail. The clamps should be positioned well above the center of the joint to minimize the chance that they’ll split wood fibers when tightened down onto a face or sides. When using only nails, position them with their heads below surfaces so they’re less likely to catch your saw blade later and cause it to bind in case you have to make a cut across end grain after assembling each log holder. If desired, add diagonal bracing between joints as shown in our example at right – this adds strength but is probably unnecessary since both ends will always bear weight on flat ground rather than being suspended from slotted roof beams where wind could exert side pressure against unsupported faces. Using corner clamps to apply pressure on all four faces of each joint will speed up assembly time, especially when assembling multiple log holders at once.
Step Five: Sanding and Staining Log Holder
Sanding your cut logs with progressively finer sandpaper – starting with #60-grit to remove saw marks from the miter saw blade, then progressing through to #100 grit or higher for final smoothing – is essential if you intend to use an oil-, wax-, varnish-based or other natural wood product stain that penetrates deep into end grain. If using a clear penetrating exterior sealer/water repellent like Thompson’s Water Seal, skip this step since it won’t reach deep enough inside the end grain pores of the lumber unless physically forced there by sanding. Water-based polyurethane, on the other hand, will soak in fairly deep but it may not wear as well or hold up to UV rays and environmental moisture without a separate sealer applied over top later.
Step Six: Preparing Wood for Staining Log Holder
If you’re going to apply mold inhibitors like wood preservatives containing pentachlorophenol (penta) or creosote before staining your log holder – which is recommended if using green logs that contain high amounts of natural tannins from tree bark – then remove all loose splinters and debris from surfaces with a wire brush first so they don’t get sealed inside your finished stain film under multiple coats of product. If you’re not going to stain the cut logs, then skip this step.
Step Seven: Staining Log Holder
Apply a thin coat of oil- or water-based wood product stain – either one is fine provided it penetrates deep enough inside end grain pores so tannins are leached out and replaced with colorants that won’t fade over time due to UV damage from sunlight exposure – using a natural bristle brush for large surfaces or an old sock on small ones. You can also use lint-free cloths designed specifically for painting if you don’t wish to apply any more than two coats in order to avoid darkening your log holder too much since most penetrating stains tend to be somewhat transparent at first until they soak into deeper areas of wood grain.
Step Eight: Finishing Log Holder with Clear Penetrating Sealer/Water Repellent
Apply two coats of clear penetrating sealer over your stained logs to protect them from water penetration, UV exposure, and mold – especially if you’re using green untreated lumber that contains high amounts of natural tannins which will leach out in time leaving bare end grain exposed. Apply the first coat liberally by hand in a sweeping motion while holding an old sock or rag over open ends where it’s most likely to drip down into gaps between boards since this is when rot usually starts forming due to moisture damage due to rain exposure on exterior surfaces during heavy storms after long periods of drought followed by rapid rainfall before evaporation can occur.
Step Nine: Preparing and Applying Exterior Clear Water Repellent to Log Holder
Applying a clear penetrating water repellent like Thompson’s or Wolman’s over top the sealer you just applied will help protect your log holder from future rain damage by forcing it down into deeper end grain pores where moisture can’t penetrate so easily. In order for this step to be effective, however, any unsealed gaps between wood boards must be filled with either exterior caulking compound or hot beeswax melted in an old tin can then cooled until solid – only use natural wax if going that route since petroleum-based waxes may contain fungicides which could leach out of your finished product after time and contaminate your logs.
Step Ten: Properly Storing Firewood to Reduce Drying Time
If your log holder is intended for use in a wood stove, fireplace insert, or furnace during the colder months of the year when moisture loss from firebox heat will be accelerated by cold outdoor air drafts entering through any cracks around its exterior frame – which will also cause larger pieces to shrink more than smaller ones due to differential rates of evaporation between inner and outer surfaces – then it’s recommended that you store cut green logs indoors near an open window before assembly so they can dry out slowly over time without developing large internal voids that often lead to structural splitting once dried too fast with wide temperature fluctuations unless properly seasoned first at room temperature where moisture content stabilizes.
Step Eleven: Pre-Drilling Holes to Prevent Splitting
To make a log holder that won’t split or crack from future temperature fluctuations, pre-drill holes along end grain lines before assembly – usually around the circumference of small logs and on opposite sides for larger ones since they’re most likely to shrink unevenly as moisture evaporates out during initial seasoning phase after cutting which can lead to structural splitting if not allowed enough time at room temperature near an open window so wood pores have adequate time to fully absorb any excess water remaining inside them once cut down into smaller pieces using a chainsaw depending on size. Larger diameter logs should be stacked with their ends staggered in alternate rows so air circulation is maximized between them and any excess water remaining inside can evaporate at a slower rate.
Step Twelve: How to Make Log Holder Ends Less Sharp
Sharp ends of cut logs sticking out from your log holder may be hazardous, especially for young children who could easily impale themselves on the exposed tips if not sanded down first with coarse-grit sandpaper by an adult until they’re blunt enough that no one gets hurt while handling firewood or removing it from storage every time you need more to burn in your fireplace insert during winter months when everyone’s home doing family stuff like making gingerbread houses using cookie cutters shaped like snowflakes, reindeer, Christmas trees, angels – whatever motif strikes their fancy as long as they’re not too intricate to cut out with an X-Acto knife so gingerbread dough doesn’t break off when trying to lift it up over a kitchen counter without breaking the cookies.
Step Thirteen: How to Ensure Log Holder Doesn’t Weep Water Out of Ends
To further protect your log holder from rain damage, you can plug any end grain openings where excess water may accumulate during extended periods of rainfall or snow by filling them in first using exterior caulking compound before adding more wood boards for structural support along their length – but make sure there’s enough space between them later on after assembly so moisture trapped inside has time to evaporate slowly at room temperature near an open window or set on low while periodically monitoring its progress every few days until it’s gone before cementing or nailing them down to avoid trapping excess water inside which can cause structural damage over time if not allowed to evaporate out gradually after being cut.
Step Fourteen: How to Protect Log Holder from Insect Infestation
To protect your log holder against insect infestation, coat its outer surfaces with a clear wood sealant like Danish Oil afterwards by applying one thin even layer of oil evenly on all sides using 320-grit sandpaper and wiping away any residue leftover afterward – especially important for outdoor use where moisture is more likely trapped underneath the surface while protecting exposed logs from sun exposure during periods of prolonged drought when everything turns golden brown in color except cacti plants that turn black instead.
Step Fifteen: How to Maximize Wood Holder’s Storage Capacity
Once you’re satisfied with your log holder assembly, the only thing left to do is figure out how much more wood you can store inside it now that all end gaps are plugged up and no water will leak through any longer – which varies depending on size of logs used for construction as well as thickness between them if they were cut down into smaller pieces using a chainsaw but one cubic foot of storage space should be sufficient enough for predetermined amount usually designated by household firewood usage guidelines based on number of fireplaces or inserts in use at home during winter months when everyone’s home doing family stuff like making gingerbread houses using cookie cutters shaped like snowflakes, reindeer, Christmas trees or angels – whatever motif strikes their fancy as long as they’re not too intricate to cut out with an X-Acto knife so gingerbread dough doesn’t break off when trying to lift it up over a kitchen counter without breaking the cookies.
Step Sixteen: How to Build Firewood Holder Using Lumber Boards
If you prefer using lumber boards instead of logs for your home’s firewood holder construction project, two options are available depending on how much wood you need stored inside at any given time.
The first option involves cutting down four 12″ x 36″ sections of dimensional pine lumber into corresponding stackable pieces that can be stacked one another vertically in alternating rows for maximum wood storage capacity.
The second option is to use 18″ x 48″ pieces instead and cut down each end of the board into corresponding stacked triangular halves with opposing 45 degree angles on either side – but four more cuts need to be made in between them first using a table saw or circular saw set at 22-degree intervals resulting in eight smaller ends that can easily stack one another like LEGO bricks inside your log holder while preventing any excess water from leaking out through its openings when exposed outdoors during periods of rainfall for extended periods.
Step Eighteen: How to Maximize Wood Holder’s Storage Capacity
Once you’re satisfied with your lumber board assembly, the only thing left to do figure out how much more wood you can store inside it now that all end gaps are plugged up and no water will leak through any longer – which varies depending on size of lumber pieces used for construction as well as thickness between them if they were cut down into smaller pieces using a chainsaw but one cubic foot of storage space should be sufficient enough for predetermined amount usually designated by household firewood usage guidelines based on number of fireplaces or inserts in use at home during winter months when everyone’s home doing family stuff like making gingerbread houses using cookie cutters shaped like snowflakes, reindeer, Christmas trees or angels – whatever motif strikes their fancy as long as they’re not too intricate to cut out with an X-Acto knife so gingerbread dough doesn’t break off when trying to lift it up over a kitchen counter without breaking the cookies.
Gluing and Screwing Together the Parts of Your Log Holder for Cutting Firewood
Now that your log holder for cutting firewood is cut out, it’s time to assemble the pieces. That will take a little bit of work and some tools you probably already have at home (glue gun, screwdriver). Make sure all the parts fit together well before gluing them together so there are no surprises later on. If they don’t line up right or if screws won’t go in easily then sand down any rough edges with sandpaper until everything fits snugly into place. When assembling use wood glue along each side where two boards meet and drive in wood screws every 12 inches or so around the outside perimeter of your log holder for cutting firewood board to secure it even more tightly inside its shell.
Make sure you use wood screws for this because they are specifically designed to hold the weight of logs, unlike drywall or sheet metal screws which will not withstand being under so much pressure. With your log holder assembled it’s time to build a cutting station!
Finishing Touches on Your Log Holder
When you are done with the first step, it’s time to put on some finishing touches. You need to sand all of your wood pieces before screwing them together. Just make sure that your hands aren’t too sweaty because sweat can cause clumps of sawdust in between the spaces which will be very difficult to remove later on. Also, for this process use an orbital sander or a belt sander rather than using hand tools like sand paper as they do not create heat and/or burn marks – making clean cuts much easier! If you have never used power tools before then there is no shame in asking someone who knows what they’re doing for help during this stage and beyond – better safe than sorry after all.
Before putting the holder together, you need to drill pilot holes into each of your wood pieces. This is essential for making sure that there are no gaps between the boards or board and screws so be careful not to skip this step if you ever want an easy life later on down the line! Remember it’s better to have a few pilot holes than too many. After drilling all of these pilot holes, screw in some screws at every joint where two boards meet – but don’t tighten them yet because we will do that after attaching our rack onto its final resting place. Once everything has been attached with screws then it’s time for another round of sanding just like before only now use finer grit paper (e.g., 220-grit). After the final sanding, your log holder is ready for use!
- The first thing to consider is how a log holder for cutting firewood can protect the environment. It can be difficult to dispose of logs after they have been used, and if an alternative way exists then it would be environmentally friendly.
- The best ways are recycling or burning them as fuel. If you choose this option, take care not to burn wet wood because this releases more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere than dryer materials.
- Always wear safety goggles and gloves for protection against flying wood chips.
- Use a push stick to help you move the logs through the blade.
- When cutting long pieces, use a clamp or vise grip on your wood so it doesn’t roll back into your body as you saw with one side cut open. You can also have someone hold it from behind if they are available.
- Make sure that all cords and power tools are out of reach for children and pets who could be injured by them!
- Keep an eye on what is going on around you while working in case there is a child or pet near where you are using this tool!
What is the best wood for cutting logs?
The most common types of trees that are used to cut into firewood are maple, oak, and birch. These types of tree have a high density which makes it easier when sawing through them while you’re building your log holder. Maple has an average weight per cubic foot at around 40 pounds while Birch weighs in on average at 23 lbs per cubic foot. Oak can be up to 70lbs/cubic feet making it one of the heaviest woods available today!
What is a log holder?
A log holder can be any number of tools that are used to hold logs in place while you’re sawing through them! This will help save your hands from having blisters and cuts. The most common types of these holders include wood, metal, or even homemade ones which you can make with PVC pipe! You might want to start looking for options online before making one yourself.
How do I make a DIY version using PVC piping?
Making a DIY version out of plumbing pipes such as those found at Home Depot/Lowes is super easy and cheap to put together! To begin, cut the length between 24-36 inches long depending on your preference.
How do I cut logs into pieces?
When the time comes to saw through a log, make sure you have an appropriate blade for what type of wood it is! This will prevent damaging or dulling your blades if they are not meant for cutting tough woods like oak! If these blades are dulled or damaged at all during use, be sure to replace them because it can cause damage to whatever tool that’s being used with this blade as well (i.e.: chainsaws). Once you find out which types of tools work best on each type of tree/log, start by marking where the cuts need t be made ahead of time so that when you begin sawing there are no mistakes! Next, get your logs ready by making sure they are stacked evenly. Once you have the log in place and it is standing up straight, make sure to keep it there with whatever tool works best for you (i.e.: a wedge or stand). After this has been done, grab your sawing tool of choice and start cutting away one side at a time until all pieces have fallen off onto the ground! If needed after each cut made into the wood take some sandpaper to clean up any rough edges that might be too sharp if not handled properly before placing them on firewood racks/stacks.
How should I stack my firewood?
Fires aren’t started by magic; they require some work and patience to make them successful! To start, mark where the firewood needs to be stacked ahead of time. This will help with making sure there aren’t any mistakes when it comes time for stacking your wood once you have cut off all pieces from larger logs or trees. Once these marks are made, set up a stand if needed in order to keep the log/tree upright while cutting through it otherwise this part might not be necessary at all! For smaller pieces that can sit on their own without falling over, place them into stacks around four feet high but never higher than five feet tall unless using hay bales as extra support underneath each stack (until desired height is achieved). Once everything has been placed into place, it’s time to start stacking! Start with smaller pieces first and work your way up until the stack is complete. Once you have reached this point, congratulations because you just successfully built a log holder and learned how to cut firewood!
What other tools do I need for cutting logs/firewood?
If you find yourself in situations where sawing through large tree trunks or logs isn't ideal; we recommend having some other tools on hand such as an axe (not as easy as using a chainsaw but better than nothing), maul (more like ax but heavier duty which can be used to split wood into smaller pieces instead of sawing them off completely), wedge+hammer, or a splitting maul (the same idea as the maul however, this one is used to split wood into pieces with ease instead of having to saw through them). If you are in need of something that can help cut down trees without needing an axe or chainsaw then we recommend using a tree feller. This tool will make cutting large logs at least half the time it would take when trying to do so by hand! If needed find out if your local hardware store rents these types of tools before buying one yourself because they definitely don’t come cheap.
How long should I let my firewood dry?
Drying times for each type of wood depends on how often you use/burn it and the density of wood. If you don’t plan on using it that often or want to burn a smaller amount then we recommend letting your firewood dry for at least one month before actually trying to use it as fuel! If you find yourself needing large amounts of firewood for future purposes such as camping, bonfires, etc., drying times will be longer than usual so expect anywhere from six months up until a year depending on how dense/densely packed together the type is.
How do I know if my logs are ready?
Size isn't everything! When looking into cutting down trees or splitting them in half, there might come a point where you question whether they're ready or not to use as firewood. Instead of going by height alone, look for a few key characteristics such as: color (closely matching the bark), weight per cubic foot density, and cracks in between each piece! If you find yourself questioning whether something is ready or not before cutting it down; err on the side of caution because putting your hand into a log that isn’t fully dried could result in some pretty nasty blisters if not handled with care. After finding logs/tree pieces dry enough to burn without needing too much work from being cut off completely then congratulations are in order because now you know how to build a log holder properly plus have gained more insight on what tools will be needed so all future jobs can go as smoothly as possible!
In this article, we’ve covered the entire process of building a log holder for cutting firewood. You can build one by following our instructions and using quality materials that ensure reliable performance over time. Building your own DIY workbench is a rewarding experience but it takes some effort to succeed, so follow these steps carefully before you buy any materials or tools. We hope you enjoyed reading our guide about how to build a log holder for cutting wood! Please leave us comments below if you have anything to share with us or thank us for making this tutorial about how to build a handle for logs!